Batch Image Resizer

Resizing is not compressing — you usually need both

Resizing changes how many pixels a photo has; compressing changes how much data each pixel costs. A 6000-pixel photo saved at high quality is still a huge file, and a 1200-pixel photo saved carelessly can still be heavier than it needs to be. The practical order is: resize first, to the largest size anyone will actually see, then compress. If your photos are already the right dimensions and only the file weight is the problem, head straight to our Image Compressor instead — it offers finer quality control and can resize on the side. Most web photos want both passes: resize here, then a gentle squeeze there, and a 10 MB camera file becomes a fast, good-looking 250 KB.

Choosing dimensions for web, email and Instagram

For a website, 1920 px on the long edge covers full-width hero images on almost every screen, and 1600 px is plenty for images inside an article — anything larger is weight your visitors download for pixels they never see. For email, 1200 px is the sweet spot: sharp in an inbox preview, small enough to stay well under attachment limits, and polite to clients on phones. For Instagram, 1080 px wide is what the app displays; feeding it more just hands the resizing decision to its compression, which is rarely kind. If you are sizing for print instead of screens, pixels alone do not tell the story — run your dimensions through the Print Size Calculator to check the DPI before you send anything to a lab.

Why this tool will not upscale your photos

Making a photo smaller throws away pixels you can spare. Making it bigger invents pixels that were never captured — the result is a larger file that looks softer, not sharper, and no resizing tool can recover detail that is not there. So the presets, percentage and width/height modes here never go above your original size: ask for 2048 px on a 1500 px photo and you simply get your 1500 px photo back, re-encoded. (The exact-dimensions mode with the aspect lock unticked is the one deliberate exception — it stretches to the box you specify, because sometimes a form demands an exact size. Use it knowing the trade-off.) If an image genuinely needs to be bigger, the honest answer is to shoot it bigger next time — the habits in how to take sharp photos every time matter far more than any enlargement, and the same goes for working with natural light in photography: detail captured well beats detail manufactured later.

Frequently asked questions

Are my photos uploaded to a server?

No. The resizing runs in your browser using its built-in image engine. You can verify it: load this page, switch your device to airplane mode, and the tool still works.

Does resizing strip EXIF data?

Yes, mostly. Re-encoding through the browser strips most embedded metadata — camera settings, and importantly GPS coordinates — from the resized copy, which is a quiet privacy bonus when you share photos publicly. Your originals on your device are untouched and keep everything, so resize copies, never your only version.

How many photos can I resize at once?

As many as your device can hold in memory — batches of 50 are routine on a laptop. Every file is resized with the settings chosen when you add it, and “Download all” hands them back as a single ZIP. If you want different sizes for different photos, add them in groups: resize the web set, download it, clear the list, then do the email set.

Which format should I choose?

Keep the original format unless you have a reason to change it. JPEG is the safe default for photographs, WebP is usually smallest for websites, and PNG is lossless but large — best kept for graphics and screenshots. If you are polishing photos before they reach this tool, our round-up of the top free editing apps for photographers covers the ones worth your time.